What causes acne scars?

Growing up I was always told not to pick at or pop my pimples because it will cause scarring, but of course teenagers don’t listen to that advice. I just wanted to the whiteheads off my face and I thought cleaning out the pimple would make it go away faster. It is easier to cover up redness than it is to cover up whiteheads or blackheads. Now that I am approaching thirty and considering anti-aging skincare, I am realizing that all that pimple popping over the last fifteen years or so has really aged me. Although the wrinkles on my face are mostly limited to my forehead, my acne scars make me appear much older than I am. So why do the scars appear? How can it better be prevented? And what can reduce the scarring?

The cause of scars…

Acne is the result of pores clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria and can vary in severity. Once the pimple or more severe lesion becomes irritated, the body has a natural response for healing. An article by Dr. Heidi Prather explains that during the healing process, the skin produces collagen and scarring is a result of too much or too little collagen production. Excess collagen causes raised scarring and not enough collagen causes pitted scarring. This process of healing is similar to the way that a body heals a cut or incision. When a scar is left behind it looks like either too much or too little skin filled into the cut. The same article states that whiteheads and blackheads do not usually cause scarring, but irritating the area can. Naturally, the deeper the lesion or more severe the irritation, the worse the scarring can be. 

Prevention…

The best course of preventing acne scarring is to prevent the acne or use treatments before it becomes more severe and irritated. Convincing your teenager to consistently use an effective skin care system for their skin type at an early age would be the ideal method of ensuring they have clear skin when they are older. Easier said than done, right. We just do the best we can, but I do have a few tips that have helped me out.

Start Simple:  When you are first trying to get your teen into a routine, start young, but also start simple. Using only the cleanser and moisturizer step might be the way to go right away, especially if the acne isn’t severe at a young age. Just getting them used to having any kind of routine is a win. Later, when your teen starts to have more severe acne, or starts to care more about their appearance, you can incorporate additional steps such as a toner, spot treatment, or even a mask a couple times a week.

Keep It Visible:  They say it takes 21 days to build a new habit, so it’s easy to forget until the routine has become, well, routine. Leave the skincare out on the counter so your teen can see it all the time. Even for me, if I leave something in the medicine cabinet, it is out of sight, out of mind. It may look a little more cluttered, but it does help to have a visual. A fun little basket can help contain the clutter and keep things organized. 

Scar Repair…

There are many ways out there to repair acne scars or make them less visible. Most methods involve removing layers of skin so that new skin can heal better than the previously scarred skin. Treatments range from gentle creams and physical exfoliates to laser resurfacing and surgery. An article on Healthline goes over the following options:

Alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs):  These gentle acids are found in many acne products because they gently remove layers of dead skin cells to enhance the skin’s own repair process. The most common AHA right now is glycolic acid and can be found in a couple of my favorite products for facial scarring and cellulite.

Lactic acid:  I personally don’t know much about this one, but it is a little more vigorous than AHAs and is only recommended once every two weeks. The article states the same ingredient is found in apple cider vinegar.

Retinoids:  Retinoids are a stronger form of retinol, but they have the same overall effect on the skin. These function to speed up the production of new cells and target skin discoloration. Two of my favorite products for anti-aging and deep wrinkle filling would also be effective to target acne scars because they utilize retinol. Sun screen is advised when using retinoids and related products due to induced sun sensitivity.

Salicylic acid: When I talked about acne treatment in a previous article we learned that salicylic acid removes dead skin from pores and improves the appearance of skin. When used regularly, this can be an effective treatment for scarring as well. Just be sure to use an effective moisturizer because salicylic acid can cause drying and irritation without proper follow-up care. 

Sunscreen: Protecting scars from the sun can reduce their appearance. As always, sun care is vital in caring for your skin at any age. Sun damage can make scars appear darker and more visible.

Dermabrasion: This method works at the surface to exfoliate the top layer of skin. In a dermatologist office, a wire brush or wheel is used by a healthcare provider. Microdermabrasion kits are a much cheaper at-home alternative that can have the same affect but take longer to be as effective.

Chemical peels: There are several types of chemical peels with different intensities based on which acid is used. One of my favorite at-home chemical peels uses glycolic acid and feels amazing because it is getting at deeper layers of skin but is still gentle enough to be used 2-3 times a week. Stronger chemical peels can be done in a provider office and provide more dramatic results. 

Laser resurfacing:  This method also removes the top layer of skin, but the area must be covered with a bandage while healing. Laser resurfacing is done in a healthcare office and can have relatively faster healing times; however, it is not recommended for active acne or darker skin tones.

Fillers: Filler injections are also done in a provider office and consist of collagen, fat cells, or a commercial product. For depressed scars, this treatment is injected just under the surface to plump up the skin, so the scar is no longer depressed. These treatments could be permanent or temporary. 

Microneedling: The idea behind microneedling is to slightly injure the skin so that it will trigger the body’s repair mechanism. Once the skin is numbed in a provider office, a roller or pen with small needles is used to puncture the skin, but not like an injection. Studies show that results could take up to 9 months with this treatment.

Injections: For raised scars, injections of substances to break down the excess skin are sometimes used once every few weeks. 

Minor surgery: The last method mentioned in the Healthline article is surgery to remove scars. Surgeons can either create a new scar that will be less visible when it heals or get under the scar to raise it so that it is less noticeable.

There are so many options for treating acne scars, the key with any type of skin care is using it consistently as recommended. This is where I generally struggle, even though I have gotten pretty good at washing my face every day. I have a hard time making the time to pamper myself with masks and added treatment to help my acne scars. The skincare system I’m using currently has added age-fighting ingredients in every step and can improve skin texture (including scars) over time so I am excited to see the results over the next year. Acne and scarring can happen at any age, but everyone deserves to feel comfortable in their own skin.

Sincerely, Katie Ann.

#acnesolutions #loveyourskin #sincerelykatieann

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